Screwdriver set
Use it for: To remove oven racks, burner shields, mounting screws, and rear access panels if needed.
Shop screwdriver setsOven repair
How to Replace an Oven Broil Igniter
If your oven’s broil function will not light or heats weakly while the rest of the oven seems normal, replacing the oven broil igniter is a common fix.
This repair is usually straightforward, but you are working around electricity, sharp metal edges, and a gas ignition system. Take your time, shut the appliance down fully, and stop if the wiring or burner area looks damaged.
Before you start: Match the igniter style, connector, and appliance compatibility before ordering.
Safety first
- Disconnect electrical power before removing panels or touching wiring.
- If your oven is gas, shut off the gas supply before disconnecting or splicing igniter leads.
- Wear gloves around oven liners and rear panels because sheet metal edges are sharp.
- Use only high-temperature connectors intended for oven igniter wiring when a splice is required.
- Do not touch the new igniter element with force or bang it against metal parts; it is fragile.
Tools you may need
Nut driver set
Use it for: Many oven panels and igniter brackets use hex-head screws instead of Phillips screws.
Shop nut driver sets
Work gloves
Use it for: To protect your hands from sharp sheet-metal edges inside the oven and behind the appliance.
Shop work gloves
Flashlight
Use it for: To see the igniter, wire routing, and connector area clearly.
Shop flashlights
Wire stripper and ceramic wire nuts
Use it for: Some replacement igniters use bare leads that must be spliced instead of plugged in.
Shop wire stripper and ceramic wire nutsAs an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. Repair Riot may earn a commission at no extra cost to you.
Step-by-step fix
Step 1: Confirm the broil igniter is the likely problem
- Set the oven to broil and watch through the open door or window if your model allows safe viewing.
- Look for the broil burner at the top of the oven cavity. A healthy igniter should begin glowing and the burner should light shortly after.
- If the igniter does not glow, glows but never lights the burner, or takes a long time and broil heat stays weak, the broil igniter is a likely failure point.
- Compare that to bake mode if available. If bake works but broil does not, that points more directly to the broil side parts.
If it works: You have a clear broil-only ignition problem that matches a failed or weak broil igniter.
If it doesn’t: If neither bake nor broil works, or the control panel is dead, troubleshoot power supply, controls, or gas supply before replacing the igniter.
Stop if:
- You smell gas before or during testing.
- The burner tube is loose, badly rusted, or visibly damaged.
- Wiring is burned, melted, or brittle enough that a simple igniter swap will not restore safe operation.
Step 2: Shut off power and make the oven safe to work on
- Turn the oven controls off.
- Unplug the range or switch off the circuit breaker.
- If your oven uses gas, close the gas shutoff valve if it is accessible.
- Open the oven door and let the interior cool fully.
- Remove the oven racks so you have room to work.
If it works: The oven is off, cool, and safe to open up.
If it doesn’t: If you cannot disconnect power or safely access the appliance, wait and arrange service rather than working on a live unit.
Stop if:
- The shutoff valve will not move or appears to leak.
- You still smell gas after the controls are off.
Step 3: Access the broil igniter
- Locate the broil burner assembly at the top of the oven cavity.
- Remove any broiler shield, flame spreader, or interior panel that blocks access to the igniter.
- Find the igniter mounted near the broil burner with two mounting screws and a wire lead running through the oven wall or toward a rear panel.
- If the wire connector is not reachable from inside the oven, carefully pull the appliance forward and remove the rear access panel to reach the igniter connection.
If it works: You can see the broil igniter clearly and reach its mounting screws and wire connection.
If it doesn’t: If access is blocked by parts that do not come free with normal screws, check your owner literature for panel layout before forcing anything.
Stop if:
- A panel is seized in place and bending badly when you try to remove it.
- The burner assembly shifts out of position or appears unsupported.
Step 4: Remove the old broil igniter
- Take a photo of the igniter position and wire routing before disconnecting anything.
- Remove the igniter mounting screws while supporting the part so it does not drop and crack.
- Disconnect the igniter plug if it has one.
- If the replacement uses wire leads instead of a plug, cut the old igniter wires one at a time far enough back to leave clean wire for the new splice.
- Handle the old igniter carefully. The ceramic body is brittle and can break apart.
If it works: The old broil igniter is out and the mounting area and wires are ready for the new part.
If it doesn’t: If the screws are stuck, apply steady pressure with the correct driver and try again rather than stripping the heads.
Stop if:
- The wire insulation crumbles back into the harness.
- The connector or terminal block is heat-damaged beyond the igniter leads.
Step 5: Install the new broil igniter
- Compare the new igniter to the old one for bracket shape, lead length, and connector style before installing.
- Mount the new igniter in the same position and orientation as the original.
- Reconnect the plug, or splice the wires using the high-temperature connectors supplied with the part or ceramic wire nuts rated for this use.
- Keep the wires routed away from the burner flame path and any sharp metal edges.
- Reinstall any interior shield, cover, or rear access panel you removed.
If it works: The new igniter is mounted securely, wired safely, and the oven is reassembled.
If it doesn’t: If the new part does not match the old one closely enough to mount and connect without strain, pause and verify fit before powering the oven back on.
Stop if:
- The replacement cannot be secured firmly in the original location.
- The wire routing would leave insulation touching the burner or hot metal surfaces.
Step 6: Restore power and test broil in real use
- Turn the gas back on if you shut it off.
- Plug the oven back in or switch the breaker on.
- Set the oven to broil and watch for the igniter to glow and the broil burner to light within a normal short cycle.
- Let broil run for several minutes to confirm the flame stays steady and the top of the oven heats normally.
- Reinstall the racks and slide the appliance fully back into place if you moved it.
If it works: The broil burner lights reliably and stays heating during a normal broil test.
If it doesn’t: If the new igniter glows but the burner still does not light, the problem may be in the safety valve, wiring, control, or gas flow and the next step is deeper diagnosis.
Stop if:
- You smell gas without ignition.
- The flame is uneven, lifting, or burning outside the normal burner path.
- The breaker trips or you see sparking, smoke, or overheating wires.
Replacement Parts
Find an oven broil igniter on Amazon
Match the igniter style, connector, and appliance compatibility before ordering.
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. Repair Riot may earn a commission at no extra cost to you.
Verify the repair
- Broil starts with the new igniter glowing and the burner lighting shortly after.
- The burner flame stays steady instead of cutting out or failing to spread.
- The oven reaches strong broil heat during a several-minute test.
- No gas smell, sparking, or hot exposed wiring is present after reassembly.
FAQ
How do I know the broil igniter is bad and not the bake igniter?
If bake still works but broil does not, the broil igniter is a strong suspect. Each function usually has its own igniter, so one can fail while the other still works.
Can an igniter glow and still be bad?
Yes. A weak igniter can glow but fail to draw enough current to open the gas valve fully, so the burner never lights or lights slowly.
Do I need to shut off the gas to replace the broil igniter?
It is the safer approach whenever you are opening the appliance and working around the ignition circuit. Shut off power first, and shut off gas if your oven uses it and the valve is accessible.
Can I use regular wire nuts on an oven igniter splice?
No. Oven igniter wiring gets hot. Use the high-temperature connectors supplied with the part or ceramic wire nuts rated for appliance heat.
What if the new igniter does not fix broil?
The next likely causes are a bad safety valve, damaged wiring, a failed control output, or a burner/gas flow issue. At that point, more testing is usually needed.