Adjustable wrench or socket set
Use it for: To loosen and remove the shipping bolts from the back panel.
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How to Remove Washer Shipping Bolts
To remove washer shipping bolts, pull the washer out enough to reach the back, remove each transport bolt with the correct wrench or socket, then install the included hole caps if your washer came with them. Do this before running the washer.
Shipping bolts lock the tub in place for transport. If they stay installed, the washer can shake hard, walk, bang, or get damaged during spin. This is usually a one-time setup task on a new or recently moved washer.
Before you start: Match the part or procedure carefully before you start. Stop if the repair becomes unsafe or unclear.
Safety first
- Shipping bolts must be removed before normal washer use.
- Get help moving the washer if it is heavy or tight in a laundry closet.
- Do not pinch or overstretch water hoses, the drain hose, or the power cord while pulling the washer out.
- Wear gloves if the rear panel edges or hardware feel sharp.
Tools you may need
Work gloves
Use it for: To protect your hands while reaching behind the washer and handling metal hardware.
Shop work gloves
Flashlight
Use it for: To see the bolt locations and any labels on the back of the washer.
Shop flashlights
Small container or zip bag
Use it for: To store the removed bolts in case the washer is moved again later.
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Step-by-step fix
Step 1: Make sure shipping bolts are really the issue
- Look at the back of the washer for long bolts, spacers, or brightly marked transport hardware near the rear panel.
- Check whether the washer is new, was just delivered, or was recently moved to another home.
- If your washer has never been run correctly and seems locked, extra stiff, or violently shaky, shipping bolts are a likely cause.
- Do not start a wash or spin cycle until the transport hardware is removed.
If it works: You have confirmed the washer still has shipping bolts installed or you have strong reason to believe they are still in place.
If it doesn’t: If you do not see shipping bolts and the washer has already been used normally before, this is probably the wrong repair. Check leveling, floor support, or load balance instead.
Stop if:
- The back of the washer is damaged, bent, or cracked around the bolt locations.
- The washer looks like it was dropped or the cabinet is badly twisted.
- You cannot identify the transport hardware with reasonable confidence.
Step 2: Pull the washer out and set up a safe work area
- Unplug the washer so it cannot start while you are working behind it.
- Turn off the water only if you need extra room and might strain the hoses while moving the machine.
- Slide the washer straight out far enough to work comfortably behind it without crushing the drain hose or water lines.
- Use a flashlight to locate every shipping bolt before removing any of them.
If it works: You can safely reach the back of the washer and clearly see the transport bolts.
If it doesn’t: If the washer will not move easily, get help rather than forcing it and risking damage to the floor, hoses, or your back.
Stop if:
- A water hose is kinked, cracked, or leaking while you move the washer.
- The drain hose is crushed or pulled loose.
- The power cord or outlet shows heat damage or exposed wiring.
Step 3: Remove all shipping bolts and spacers
- Use the correct wrench or socket to loosen the first shipping bolt by turning it counterclockwise.
- Pull the bolt straight out once it is loose. Remove any plastic or rubber spacer that comes out with it.
- Repeat the process for each remaining shipping bolt on the back of the washer.
- Set all removed hardware in a bag or container and keep it with the owner's papers in case the washer is moved again.
If it works: All shipping bolts and their spacers have been removed from the washer.
If it doesn’t: If a bolt is hard to remove, back it out slowly and keep it straight. A little wiggling is normal, but do not pry against the cabinet.
Stop if:
- A bolt spins freely but will not come out and the rear panel starts deforming.
- Part of a spacer breaks off and remains stuck inside the opening.
- You find fewer or more transport parts than expected and cannot tell whether all locking hardware is out.
Step 4: Install the rear hole caps if your washer has them
- Check the packaging or accessory bag for plastic caps that cover the empty shipping-bolt holes.
- Press a cap into each open hole until it seats flush.
- If your washer did not come with caps, leave the holes as designed and do not stuff them with tape, rags, or random plugs.
If it works: The rear openings are either capped with the correct pieces or left open as intended by the washer design.
If it doesn’t: If you cannot find the caps, you can usually continue using the washer as long as all shipping bolts are removed.
Stop if:
- A cap will not fit because part of the shipping hardware is still stuck in the opening.
Step 5: Set the washer back in place and level it
- Move the washer back carefully, leaving enough slack in the hoses and drain line.
- Set all four feet firmly on the floor so the washer does not rock corner to corner.
- Adjust the leveling feet if needed until the cabinet feels stable.
- Recheck that nothing behind the washer is pinched or rubbing hard against the cabinet.
If it works: The washer is back in position, stable on the floor, and ready for a test run.
If it doesn’t: If the washer still rocks after basic foot adjustment, keep leveling it before testing. An unlevel washer can still shake even with the shipping bolts removed.
Stop if:
- The floor feels soft, broken, or badly uneven under the washer.
- A hose connection starts leaking after the washer is moved back.
Step 6: Run a short test and confirm the repair held
- Plug the washer back in.
- Run a rinse and spin or other short cycle with no laundry if your washer allows it.
- Listen during spin for normal movement instead of violent banging, hopping, or walking.
- Check the back once more after the test to confirm all shipping bolts are out and no leaks started while moving the washer.
If it works: The washer spins normally with controlled vibration, stays in place, and no shipping bolts remain installed.
If it doesn’t: If the washer still shakes hard, recheck leveling, load instructions, and floor support. If it is still unstable, the problem may not be shipping bolts alone.
Stop if:
- The washer walks across the floor, slams violently, or sounds mechanically damaged during the test.
- You smell burning, see sparks, or find a water leak.
Verify the repair
- All shipping bolts and spacers are fully removed from the back of the washer.
- The washer sits level and does not rock on the floor.
- A short test cycle completes without violent shaking, walking, or banging.
- No hoses leak and nothing behind the washer is pinched after you move it back.
FAQ
What happens if I run a washer with shipping bolts still installed?
The tub cannot move the way it should, so the washer may shake violently, bang, walk, or suffer damage during spin. Remove the shipping bolts before regular use.
Do I need to keep the shipping bolts after removal?
Yes. Save them in a labeled bag. You will usually need them again if the washer is moved to another home or transported for service.
How many shipping bolts does a washer have?
It varies by washer design. The important part is removing all transport hardware installed at the rear, including any spacers that come out with the bolts.
Can I use the washer if I lost the plastic hole caps?
Usually yes, as long as all shipping bolts and spacers are removed. The caps are mainly there to cover the openings if your washer includes them.
My washer still shakes after I removed the shipping bolts. What should I check next?
Check that the washer is level, all four feet are firmly on the floor, the load is balanced, and the floor is solid. If those look good, the shaking may have another cause.