Bubble level
Use it for: Checks side-to-side and front-to-back level on the washer top.
Find a small bubble levelWasher stability
How to Level a Washer
To level a washer, place it on a solid floor, check side-to-side and front-to-back with a level, adjust the feet until the cabinet sits firmly without rocking, then lock the feet and test a real spin cycle.
A washer that is out of level can walk, bang, or shake harder than it should. In many cases, leveling it correctly fixes the root cause. The goal is simple: all feet should contact the floor firmly, the cabinet should read level, and the machine should stay put during a full-speed spin.
Before you start: Check whether your washer uses adjustable front feet only or adjustable feet on all corners before you buy parts or pads. Stop if the repair becomes unsafe or unclear.
Safety first
- Use good lifting and pulling posture when moving the washer. These machines are heavy and awkward.
- Keep hands clear of pinch points under the cabinet edge and around the feet.
- Do not force the washer farther from the wall than the hoses, drain line, and power cord safely allow.
- Test with a balanced load. A single rug, blanket, or one heavy item can mimic a leveling problem.
Tools you may need
Adjustable wrench
Use it for: Turns leveling feet and tightens lock nuts if your washer has them.
Shop adjustable wrenches
Slip joint pliers
Use it for: Helps hold stubborn feet or lock nuts in tight spots.
Find slip-joint pliers
Flashlight
Use it for: Lets you see the feet, floor contact, and lock nuts under the cabinet edge.
Shop LED flashlights
Work gloves
Use it for: Protects your hands while pulling the washer forward and reaching underneath.
Find work glovesAs an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. Repair Riot may earn a commission at no extra cost to you.
Step-by-step fix
Step 1: Make sure leveling is the right fix
- Look for the usual signs of an out-of-level washer: rocking when you press on opposite corners, walking during spin, or repeated banging from an otherwise intact machine.
- Open the lid or door and make sure the washer is empty before you start.
- Press down on the top front corners one at a time. If one corner lifts or the cabinet teeters, the feet likely need adjustment.
- Pull the washer forward enough to see the floor and the feet clearly.
If it works: The washer rocks or sits unevenly, and leveling is a reasonable next step.
If it doesn’t: If the washer already sits solidly and level, the shaking may be coming from an unbalanced load, shipping hardware left in place, worn suspension parts, or floor flex instead.
Stop if:
- You find major floor damage, a soft or rotted subfloor, or the washer area feels structurally weak.
- The washer is leaking heavily or has obvious broken suspension, springs, or shock components.
Step 2: Set up a safe, workable position
- Unplug the washer so it cannot start while you are moving it and reaching near the feet.
- Turn off the water supply only if you need more room to pull the washer forward without straining the hoses.
- Slide the washer forward carefully and keep the drain hose and fill hoses from kinking or stretching.
- Clear away loose items, detergent bottles, or floor mats that could affect how the feet sit.
If it works: You can reach the feet safely, and the washer is positioned where you can adjust it without stressing the hoses or cord.
If it doesn’t: If the hoses or drain line are too short to move the washer enough, reposition it only as far as the connections allow and work from the front first.
Stop if:
- A hose is cracked, badly kinked, or starts leaking when the washer is moved.
- The power cord or outlet is damaged.
Step 3: Check level and find the low corners
- Place the bubble level on the washer top near the front edge and check side-to-side.
- Move the level so it runs front-to-back along one side of the top and check again.
- Press on the top corners to feel for rocking while you watch which foot is not carrying weight firmly.
- Use a flashlight to confirm which feet are touching the floor and whether any lock nuts are loose.
If it works: You know whether the washer is low on one side, low at the front or back, or simply rocking on one corner.
If it doesn’t: If the top surface is curved or uneven, use the flattest section you can find and rely on both the bubble reading and the no-rock test.
Stop if:
- The cabinet is visibly twisted, the frame is bent, or a foot mount is damaged.
Step 4: Adjust the feet until the washer sits solidly
- Start with the corner that is low or the foot that is not contacting the floor firmly.
- Turn the leveling foot a little at a time to raise or lower that corner. On many washers, turning the foot out lowers it to the floor and raises that corner of the cabinet.
- Recheck the bubble level after each small adjustment instead of making one big change.
- If the washer still rocks, adjust the opposite front foot or the matching rear foot until all corners feel planted.
- Keep going until the washer is level side-to-side and front-to-back and does not teeter when you press on the top corners.
If it works: The washer reads level and all feet are firmly planted with no rocking.
If it doesn’t: If you run out of adjustment or the washer still rocks on a hard floor, check for debris under a foot or consider a washer-rated anti-vibration pad only after the feet are adjusted correctly.
Stop if:
- A leveling foot is stripped, bent, missing, or will not hold its position.
- The floor is so uneven that the washer cannot be stabilized with normal foot adjustment.
Step 5: Lock the adjustment and put the washer back in place
- Tighten each lock nut against the washer base if your model uses lock nuts on the feet.
- Hold the foot so it does not turn while you snug the lock nut with a wrench or pliers.
- Slide the washer back into position slowly, watching that the feet stay flat and the hoses do not bunch up underneath.
- Recheck level once the washer is in its final spot, since moving it can shift the feet slightly.
If it works: The feet are locked, the washer is back in place, and it still sits level without rocking.
If it doesn’t: If the washer rocks again after sliding it back, pull it forward slightly and fine-tune the feet one more time in the final location.
Stop if:
- The washer cannot be pushed back without crushing hoses, pinching the drain line, or forcing the cord into an unsafe position.
Step 6: Test it in real use
- Plug the washer back in and restore water if you turned it off.
- Run a rinse and spin or a small normal cycle with a balanced load, not a single heavy item.
- Watch and listen during the spin portion. A properly leveled washer should stay much steadier and should not walk across the floor.
- Check the feet one last time after the test to make sure the lock nuts stayed tight and the cabinet still feels solid.
If it works: The washer stays in place, sounds more controlled, and finishes the cycle without excessive shaking or walking.
If it doesn’t: If the washer is level but still shakes hard during balanced loads, the next likely causes are floor flex, shipping hardware left installed, or worn suspension or drum support parts.
Stop if:
- The washer still slams violently, moves aggressively, or shows signs of internal mechanical failure during the test cycle.
Verify the repair
- The washer is level side-to-side and front-to-back on the top surface.
- All feet contact the floor firmly, and the cabinet does not rock when you press on opposite corners.
- Any lock nuts on the feet are snug against the base.
- The washer completes a spin cycle without walking or excessive banging.
FAQ
Do I need a level to level a washer?
A small bubble level is the easiest way to do it accurately. You can sometimes reduce rocking by feel alone, but using a level helps you get both side-to-side and front-to-back right.
Should all four washer feet touch the floor?
Yes. The washer should sit firmly on all of its feet with no rocking. If one foot is hanging or barely touching, the machine can shake and walk during spin.
Why does my washer still shake after I leveled it?
If the washer is truly level and still shakes during balanced loads, look for floor flex, shipping bolts or packing left in place, or worn suspension parts. Leveling helps stability, but it cannot fix internal wear or a weak floor.
Can I use anti-vibration pads instead of leveling the feet?
Pads can help with minor vibration on some floors, but they are not a substitute for proper leveling. Adjust the feet first, then use washer-rated pads only if needed.
How tight should the lock nuts be on washer feet?
They should be snug against the base so the feet cannot turn loose during use. Tight enough to hold the setting is the goal; you do not need to over-muscle them.