Phillips screwdriver
Use it for: To tighten hinge screws and remove them without stripping the heads.
Find a Phillips screwdriverDoor alignment
Adjust a Sagging Door
To adjust a sagging door, start by confirming the top edge or latch side is rubbing, then tighten all hinge screws, replace any loose short screws with longer screws into solid framing, and make small hinge or shim adjustments until the reveal around the door looks even and the latch catches cleanly.
A sagging door usually means the hinge side has loosened over time, not that the whole door suddenly warped. Work slowly, make one small change at a time, and test the door after each adjustment so you do not over-correct it.
Before you start: Most sagging doors are corrected by tightening hinges, replacing stripped or short hinge screws, or adding a thin shim. Match screw length and hinge size to your existing door and jamb. Stop if the repair becomes unsafe or unclear.
Safety first
- Keep fingers clear of the hinge side while testing the door.
- Use a stable step stool when working on the top hinge.
- Support the door before removing multiple hinge screws so it does not shift suddenly.
- Drive longer screws carefully to avoid splitting old dry wood.
Tools you may need
Drill/driver
Use it for: To drive longer replacement screws into the jamb and framing.
Shop drill drivers
3 inch wood screws
Use it for: To replace loose top hinge screws and pull the jamb back into alignment.
Find 3-inch wood screws
Wood shims or thin cardboard
Use it for: To make a small hinge shim if the door still needs fine adjustment.
Shop wood shims
Utility knife
Use it for: To trim a shim neatly so it fits behind the hinge leaf.
Find a utility knife
Step stool
Use it for: To reach the top hinge safely and work square to the screws.
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Step-by-step fix
Step 1: Confirm this is the right fix
- Open the door a few inches and look at the gaps around the top and latch side.
- Check for common sagging signs: the top latch-side corner rubs the frame, the latch misses the strike, or the door swings open by itself because it is out of alignment.
- Grab the door handle and gently lift up. Watch the hinges for movement or listen for clicking that suggests loose screws.
- Look at the top hinge first, since that is where sagging problems often show up.
If it works: You can see or feel that the door is dropping on the latch side or moving at the hinges.
If it doesn’t: If the gaps are even and the door still sticks, the problem may be paint buildup, swelling, or a strike plate issue instead of sagging.
Stop if:
- The hinge screws will not tighten because the wood is badly split or crumbling.
- The door slab or frame is cracked, twisted, or pulling away from the wall.
- The door is unusually heavy and feels unsafe to support while you work.
Step 2: Tighten every hinge screw first
- Support the door in a relaxed position so it is not hanging hard on the screws.
- Starting at the top hinge, tighten all screws on the door side and frame side.
- Move to the middle and bottom hinges and do the same.
- Close the door and check whether the rubbing or latch problem improved before changing anything else.
If it works: The door feels firmer at the hinges and may already close better.
If it doesn’t: If one or more screws keep spinning or will not snug up, move on to replacing the loose screws.
Stop if:
- A hinge leaf is bent, cracked, or pulling out of the mortise.
- A screw head strips so badly that you cannot remove or tighten it safely.
Step 3: Replace loose top-hinge screws with longer screws
- Remove one loose screw at a time from the top hinge on the frame side so the hinge stays in place.
- Drive a longer wood screw through the hinge and into solid wood behind the jamb.
- Repeat for one or two more loose screws at that top hinge if needed.
- Tighten the screw until the hinge leaf sits flat, but do not overdrive it and crush the jamb.
- Test-close the door after each screw so you can see how much the alignment changes.
If it works: The top of the door pulls back toward the hinge side, and the latch side lifts enough to reduce rubbing.
If it doesn’t: If the door improved but still needs a little correction, fine-tune it with a shim or small hinge adjustment.
Stop if:
- The longer screw will not bite because the wood behind the jamb is rotten or missing.
- Driving the screw causes the jamb to crack or shift visibly.
Step 4: Fine-tune the alignment with a small hinge shim if needed
- If the latch side still rubs near the top, remove the middle or bottom hinge leaf from the jamb side and place a thin shim behind it.
- Use a wood shim or a piece of thin cardboard as a test shim, and trim it so it stays hidden behind the hinge.
- Reinstall the hinge screws and tighten them evenly so the hinge leaf sits flat.
- Close the door and check the gap again. Add or reduce shim thickness in very small amounts until the reveal looks more even.
If it works: The gaps around the door look more consistent, and the door moves without scraping the frame.
If it doesn’t: If shimming one hinge makes the fit worse, remove that shim and try a thinner one or adjust a different hinge.
Stop if:
- The hinge mortise is damaged so badly that the hinge will not sit flat.
- The door binds across multiple edges, which points to a frame or slab problem rather than a simple sag adjustment.
Step 5: Adjust the latch alignment if the door now closes but will not catch
- Close the door slowly and watch where the latch meets the strike plate.
- If the latch is only slightly off, tighten the strike plate screws and see whether that centers it enough.
- If needed, loosen the strike plate screws just enough to shift the plate slightly, then retighten and test.
- Make only small changes so you do not create a new rubbing point.
If it works: The latch enters the strike plate cleanly and the door closes without pushing or lifting.
If it doesn’t: If the latch is still far off after the door itself is aligned, the strike opening may need repair or the frame may be out of position.
Stop if:
- The strike area is split, loose, or damaged enough that screws will not hold.
- The latch still misses badly even though the door gaps now look even.
Step 6: Test the repair in normal use
- Open and close the door several times from both sides.
- Check that it does not rub at the top corner, drag on the floor, or pop back open on its own.
- Lock and unlock it if it has a lockset, and make sure the latch catches without slamming.
- Recheck the hinge screws after a day or two if the door was very loose to begin with.
If it works: The door swings smoothly, the gaps stay even, and the latch catches normally in everyday use.
If it doesn’t: If the sag returns quickly, the screw holes or framing behind the jamb likely need a more durable repair than simple adjustment.
Stop if:
- The door keeps dropping again right away, which suggests hidden wood damage or a failing jamb.
- The frame moves when the door closes, indicating a larger structural or fastening problem.
Verify the repair
- The top and side gaps around the door look reasonably even.
- The door closes without rubbing the frame or needing to be lifted.
- The latch catches the strike plate cleanly on repeated tests.
- The hinges feel tight and do not move when you lift gently on the handle.
FAQ
What usually causes a door to sag?
Most sagging doors come from loose hinge screws, worn screw holes, or a top hinge that is no longer anchored well into solid wood. Heavy use over time slowly pulls the door out of alignment.
Do I need to remove the whole door to fix sagging?
Usually no. Many sagging doors can be corrected by tightening screws, replacing a few hinge screws with longer ones, or adding a thin shim behind one hinge.
Why does replacing the top hinge screws help so much?
The top hinge carries a lot of the door's pulling force. Longer screws can reach solid framing behind the jamb and pull the door back into position better than short factory screws.
Can I bend the hinges instead?
Some people do, but it is easy to overdo it or damage the hinge. Tightening screws and using a small shim is usually a cleaner first repair for a homeowner.
What if the door rubs at the bottom instead of the top?
That can still be a hinge alignment issue, but it may also point to floor movement, a swollen door, or a frame problem. Check the hinge screws first, then look at the overall gap pattern before trimming anything.