Screwdriver set
Use it for: To remove the handle screw and trim pieces.
Shop screwdriver setBathtub faucet repair
How to Replace Bathtub Faucet Stem Washer
If your bathtub faucet drips, squeals, or does not shut off firmly, worn stem washers are a common cause. Replacing them usually means shutting off the water, removing the handle and stem, swapping the old washers for matching new ones, and testing for a clean shutoff.
This is a straightforward repair for many older two-handle tub faucets. Work slowly, keep parts in order, and bring the old washers with you if you need help matching size and shape.
Before you start: Match the replacement part to your exact faucet before ordering.
Safety first
- Shut off the water fully before removing the stem.
- Cover the tub drain so small screws and washers do not disappear into the plumbing.
- Use steady pressure on old parts to avoid slipping tools and chipping the tub or tile.
- Do not force a stuck stem if the valve body starts moving in the wall.
Tools you may need
Adjustable wrench
Use it for: To loosen the stem assembly and hold fittings without needing exact wrench sizes.
Shop adjustable wrench
Needle nose pliers
Use it for: To pull small screws, washers, or clips from the stem.
Shop needle nose pliers
Replacement stem washers and screw
Use it for: To replace the worn sealing washer at the end of the faucet stem.
Shop stem washers
Plumber's grease
Use it for: To lightly lubricate threads and moving parts during reassembly.
Shop plumber's grease
Drain cover or rag
Use it for: To block the tub drain so small screws and parts do not fall in.
Shop drain coverAs an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. Repair Riot may earn a commission at no extra cost to you.
Step-by-step fix
Step 1: Make sure the stem washers are the likely problem
- Check the faucet symptoms before taking it apart. Stem washers are a good suspect when the tub faucet drips from the spout, squeals while running, or needs extra force to shut off.
- Turn the handle off normally and watch the spout for a few minutes. A steady drip after shutoff often points to a worn washer at the end of the stem.
- If you have a two-handle faucet, note which side is leaking or harder to shut off so you can start there first.
If it works: You have a clear reason to inspect and replace the stem washers.
If it doesn’t: If the leak is coming from around the handle instead of the spout, the packing or stem seal may be the main issue. You can still inspect the washer, but plan to check the stem packing and seat condition too.
Stop if:
- The faucet body is cracked, badly corroded, or loose in the wall.
- Water is leaking from inside the wall or behind the tub surround.
Step 2: Shut off water and set up the work area
- Shut off the water supply to the tub faucet. If there are no local shutoffs, turn off the home's main water supply.
- Open the tub faucet to relieve pressure and confirm the water is off.
- Plug or cover the tub drain with a stopper or rag so screws and washers cannot fall in.
- Lay a towel in the tub to protect the finish and catch small parts.
If it works: The faucet is depressurized and the work area is protected.
If it doesn’t: If water still flows strongly, the shutoff you used is not fully closing. Find the correct shutoff before removing any faucet parts.
Stop if:
- You cannot shut the water off completely.
Step 3: Remove the handle and pull out the stem
- Pry off the handle cap if there is one, then remove the handle screw with a screwdriver.
- Pull the handle straight off. If it is stuck, wiggle it gently rather than forcing it sideways.
- Remove any trim sleeve or escutcheon that blocks access to the stem nut.
- Use an adjustable wrench to loosen the stem assembly and turn it out of the faucet body. Keep the parts in the order they came off.
If it works: The faucet stem is out where you can inspect the washer on the end.
If it doesn’t: If the handle or stem is stuck from mineral buildup, apply steady pressure and work slowly. A handle puller can help if needed.
Stop if:
- The stem will not budge and the valve body starts twisting in the wall.
- You find stripped parts or heavy corrosion that may prevent a reliable reassembly.
Step 4: Replace the old washer with a matching new one
- Look at the end of the stem and find the rubber washer held by a small screw.
- Remove the screw and old washer. If the screw is rusted or damaged, replace it too.
- Match the new washer to the old one by diameter, thickness, and hole style. An incorrect washer may leak even if it fits under the screw.
- Clean mineral buildup from the stem tip and nearby parts. Apply a very light coat of plumber's grease to the stem threads and moving surfaces, not to the washer face.
If it works: A matching new washer is installed securely on the stem.
If it doesn’t: If you cannot match the washer closely, take the old washer and stem to a hardware store or compare against a faucet repair kit before reassembling.
Stop if:
- The brass seat surface inside the faucet looks deeply pitted, cracked, or uneven enough that a new washer will not seal against it.
Step 5: Reinstall the stem and put the handle back on
- Thread the stem back into the faucet body by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
- Tighten it snugly with the wrench, but do not overtighten.
- Reinstall the trim pieces and handle, then secure the handle screw and snap the cap back on if present.
- Repeat the same repair on the other handle if both sides showed similar wear or dripping.
If it works: The faucet is reassembled and ready for water.
If it doesn’t: If the stem does not thread in smoothly by hand, back it out and realign it before tightening.
Stop if:
- The stem cross-threads, will not seat properly, or the valve body threads appear damaged.
Step 6: Turn the water back on and verify the repair holds
- Turn the water supply back on slowly.
- Open the repaired handle and let water run for a minute, then shut it off normally.
- Watch the spout for several minutes to confirm the drip has stopped or is greatly reduced.
- Check around the handle and trim for leaks while the faucet is running and after shutoff.
- Use the faucet again later the same day to make sure the handle turns smoothly and the leak does not return.
If it works: The faucet shuts off cleanly without dripping, squealing, or leaking around the handle.
If it doesn’t: If the faucet still drips from the spout, the valve seat or the full stem may also be worn. If it leaks around the handle, inspect the packing or stem seal next.
Stop if:
- A steady leak continues after replacing matching washers and tightening the stem correctly.
- You see water leaking into the wall or from behind the trim.
Replacement Parts
Find bathtub faucet stem washer on Amazon
Match the replacement part to your exact faucet before ordering.
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. Repair Riot may earn a commission at no extra cost to you.
Verify the repair
- The faucet runs normally and shuts off without needing extra force.
- The spout does not keep dripping after a short settling period.
- There is no leak around the handle, trim, or wall opening.
- The handle turns smoothly and does not squeal during use.
FAQ
How do I know the stem washers are bad?
A worn stem washer often causes a drip from the tub spout after the handle is shut off. It can also cause squealing or make the handle feel like it has to be tightened too hard to stop the water.
Can I replace just the washer instead of the whole stem?
Yes, if the stem is in good shape and the washer is the worn part. If the stem is corroded, stripped, or the seat surface is damaged, replacing only the washer may not solve the leak for long.
What if the faucet still drips after I install new washers?
The washer may be the wrong size, the screw may not be holding it flat, or the valve seat inside the faucet may be worn. A damaged seat or stem can keep a new washer from sealing properly.
Should I replace both hot and cold side washers at the same time?
It is often a good idea if both handles are the same age and wear. If one side has failed, the other may not be far behind.
Do I need plumber's tape for this repair?
Usually no. This repair is mainly about the washer sealing at the end of the stem. A small amount of plumber's grease on moving parts is more useful than tape here.