Adjustable wrench
Use it for: To loosen and tighten the hose connection at the shutoff valve and some faucet fittings.
Shop adjustable wrenchesKitchen sink plumbing
How to Replace a Kitchen Faucet Cold Supply Hose
To replace a kitchen faucet cold supply hose, shut off the cold water, disconnect the old hose from the shutoff valve and faucet, install the matching replacement hose, then turn the water back on and check carefully for leaks.
This repair is a good fit when the cold side leaks under the sink, the hose is kinked or damaged, or the faucet has weak or no cold flow while the shutoff valve still works. Work slowly in the cabinet so you do not twist the faucet body or cross-thread the new connection.
Before you start: Match the replacement part to your exact kitchen sink before ordering.
Safety first
- Work with the cold shutoff valve off before disconnecting the hose.
- Support the shutoff valve and faucet connection while loosening fittings so you do not crack or twist attached plumbing.
- Use a bucket and towels because even a drained hose usually holds some water.
- Do not force stuck fittings if the valve, pipe, or faucet body starts moving with them.
Tools you may need
Basin wrench
Use it for: To reach faucet connections tucked high behind the sink bowl.
Shop basin wrenches
Bucket or shallow pan
Use it for: To catch the water left in the hose when you disconnect it.
Find a drain pan or bucket
Towels or rags
Use it for: To protect the cabinet floor and wipe fittings dry for leak checks.
Shop absorbent shop towels
Flashlight or headlamp
Use it for: To see the hose routing and threads clearly under the sink.
Find a headlamp for under-sink workAs an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. Repair Riot may earn a commission at no extra cost to you.
Step-by-step fix
Step 1: Make sure the cold supply hose is the problem
- Run the faucet and compare hot and cold flow.
- Look under the sink while the cold side is on and check for drips, spraying, bulges, kinks, or corrosion on the cold hose.
- Turn the cold shutoff valve off, then open the faucet cold side. If cold flow stops or drops off sharply, the shutoff is responding and the hose or faucet connection is a likely issue.
- Trace the cold hose from the shutoff valve up to the faucet so you know exactly which line you are replacing.
If it works: You have confirmed the cold hose is leaking, damaged, restricted, or otherwise the most likely cause.
If it doesn’t: If both hot and cold have the same problem, or the shutoff valve will not close, diagnose the shutoff valve or faucet before replacing the hose.
Stop if:
- The cabinet, wall, or sink base is soft, swollen, or moldy from a long-term leak.
- The shutoff valve is cracked, badly corroded, or leaking from the valve body.
- You cannot clearly identify which line is the cold supply hose.
Step 2: Shut off water and set up the work area
- Turn the cold shutoff valve clockwise until it stops.
- Open the faucet on the cold side to relieve pressure and drain the line.
- Place a bucket or shallow pan under the shutoff valve and lay towels in the cabinet.
- Use a flashlight to inspect how the hose attaches at both ends before loosening anything.
If it works: The cold line is depressurized and the cabinet is protected from leftover water.
If it doesn’t: If water keeps running strongly from the cold side, the shutoff valve is not closing fully and should be addressed before you continue.
Stop if:
- The shutoff valve will not turn, starts leaking heavily, or feels like it may break.
- There is no local shutoff and you cannot safely shut water off to the sink.
Step 3: Remove the old cold supply hose
- Loosen the hose connection at the shutoff valve first while holding the valve steady so you do not twist the pipe.
- Let the remaining water drain into the bucket.
- Move to the faucet end and loosen the hose from the faucet connection or mounting shank.
- Pull the old hose out carefully and note its length, end style, and routing so the replacement follows the same path without sharp bends.
If it works: The old cold supply hose is fully removed and you have the details needed to match the replacement.
If it doesn’t: If the fitting is stuck, apply steady pressure with the correct wrench and improve access with a basin wrench rather than forcing the faucet body to twist.
Stop if:
- A fitting will not loosen and the faucet shank or shutoff valve starts turning with it.
- The old hose appears built into the faucet body in a way that does not allow normal replacement.
- Threads on the shutoff valve or faucet connection are stripped or damaged.
Step 4: Install the new hose without twisting it
- Compare the new hose to the old one and confirm the length and connection ends match.
- Start the faucet-end connection by hand first so the threads engage cleanly.
- Route the hose in a smooth curve with no kinks, sharp bends, or rubbing against rough cabinet edges.
- Start the shutoff-valve connection by hand, then tighten both ends snugly with a wrench as needed without overtightening.
If it works: The new hose is installed, properly routed, and both fittings are snug and straight.
If it doesn’t: If the hose will not thread on by hand, back it off and realign it. Cross-threaded fittings will leak and can ruin the connection.
Stop if:
- The new hose is too short, too long to route safely, or the fittings do not match exactly.
- A connection only tightens if forced, or the fitting sits crooked even after restarting the threads.
Step 5: Turn the water back on and check for leaks
- Close the faucet.
- Open the cold shutoff valve slowly while watching both hose connections.
- Once pressure is back on the line, dry the fittings with a towel and check again for fresh moisture.
- Run the faucet on cold for a minute, then inspect the hose and both ends again.
If it works: The cold side runs normally and both hose connections stay dry under pressure and during use.
If it doesn’t: If a fitting seeps, shut the valve back off and tighten that connection slightly, then test again.
Stop if:
- Water sprays from a fitting, the hose bulges, or the shutoff valve begins leaking from the stem or body.
- The faucet connection leaks even though the hose is correctly installed and snug.
Step 6: Confirm the repair holds in normal use
- Run the faucet on cold and mixed temperature several times to make sure flow is steady.
- Check that the hose does not rub, pull tight, or kink when items are moved under the sink.
- Look back under the sink after 10 to 15 minutes and again later in the day for any slow seepage.
- Remove the bucket and towels only after the cabinet stays dry.
If it works: The new kitchen faucet cold supply hose is holding, the cold side works normally, and the cabinet remains dry.
If it doesn’t: If cold flow is still weak or missing with a dry new hose, the problem may be in the shutoff valve, faucet cartridge, or debris in the faucet inlet.
Stop if:
- You find recurring moisture that is coming from a different plumbing connection or from the faucet body itself.
Replacement Parts
Find a kitchen faucet cold supply hose on Amazon
Match the replacement part to your exact kitchen sink before ordering.
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. Repair Riot may earn a commission at no extra cost to you.
Verify the repair
- Cold water flow is restored or improved at the faucet.
- Both hose connections stay dry while the faucet is off and while cold water is running.
- The new hose is routed without kinks, sharp bends, or strain.
- The cabinet floor remains dry after the sink has been used normally.
FAQ
How do I know the cold supply hose is bad and not the faucet?
A bad hose often shows visible leaking, bulging, corrosion, or a hard kink under the sink. If the shutoff valve works and the problem is isolated to the cold line, the hose is a reasonable first repair. If the new hose does not restore flow, the faucet or shutoff valve may be the real issue.
Do I need to replace the hot hose too?
Not always. If only the cold hose is leaking or damaged, you can replace just that hose. If the hot hose is the same age and shows wear, many homeowners replace both while access is open.
Can I use thread tape on the hose fittings?
Usually no for standard supply hose connections. Most faucet supply hose fittings seal with their own built-in washer or gasket, not with thread tape. Adding tape can interfere with proper sealing.
What if the shutoff valve will not close all the way?
Do not continue with the hose replacement until you can stop the water safely. If the local valve will not shut off, you may need to use the home's main water shutoff and address the faulty valve.
Why is the new hose leaking even after I tightened it?
The most common causes are cross-threading, a mismatched fitting, dirt on the sealing surface, or a damaged valve or faucet connection. Shut the water off, remove the hose, inspect the threads and sealing surfaces, and reinstall it by hand before tightening.