
Screwdriver set
Use it for: To remove the handle screw, trim screws, and the washer screw on the stem.
Shop screwdriver setIf your shower keeps dripping when the handle is fully off, worn shower valve stem washers are a common cause. Replacing them usually means shutting off the water, removing the handle and stem, swapping the old washers for matching new ones, and testing for a clean shutoff.
This is a straightforward repair on many older compression-style shower valves. The key is matching the new washers to the old ones and checking the valve seat and stem while you have it apart.
Before you start: Match the washer diameter, thickness, center hole style, and screw style to the old washer before ordering.

Use it for: To remove the handle screw, trim screws, and the washer screw on the stem.
Shop screwdriver set
Use it for: To loosen and remove the valve stem without chewing up the flats.
Shop adjustable wrench
Use it for: To pull small screws, washers, or packing pieces if they stick in place.
Shop needle-nose pliers
Use it for: To replace the worn sealing washers that let water pass when the shower is off.
Find matching stem washers
Use it for: To lightly lubricate stem threads and moving parts during reassembly.
Shop plumber's grease
Use it for: To block the drain so small screws and parts do not disappear.
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If it works: The symptom points to a shutoff problem inside the valve, and replacing the stem washers makes sense as the next step.
If it doesn’t: If water is leaking from behind the wall, around the handle, or from a cracked valve body, this is probably not just a washer replacement.
If it works: The water is off, pressure is relieved, and the work area is protected.
If it doesn’t: If the shower still runs after the shutoff, find the correct shutoff before taking the valve apart.
If it works: The valve stem is out where you can inspect the washer at the end.
If it doesn’t: If the stem is stuck, apply steady pressure and try again without forcing the trim or twisting the piping in the wall.
If it works: The stem has a new washer that matches the old one and is secured properly.
If it doesn’t: If the new washer does not match exactly, pause and get the correct size before reassembling.
If it works: The valve is back together and ready for a pressure test.
If it doesn’t: If the stem does not thread in smoothly by hand, back it out and start again to avoid damaging the valve body.
If it works: The shower shuts off cleanly and there are no leaks at the handle or behind the trim.
If it doesn’t: If the shower still drips, the valve seat or the full stem may also be worn and should be inspected or replaced next.
Match the washer diameter, thickness, center hole style, and screw style to the old washer before ordering.
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. Repair Riot may earn a commission at no extra cost to you.
Often, yes. On older compression-style valves, worn washers are a common reason water keeps slipping past the stem when the handle is off.
Match the old washer's diameter, thickness, center hole, and screw style. A washer that is close but not exact may still leak or wear out quickly.
The valve seat may be rough or damaged, or the stem itself may be worn. In that case, the next repair is usually servicing the seat or replacing the stem assembly.
Usually not for the washer itself. This repair is mainly about the stem and washer sealing inside the valve, not threaded pipe connections.
Yes, and it is often worth doing if both stems are the same age. If one washer is worn out, the other may not be far behind.