Slip joint pliers
Use it for: To loosen and reposition spring clamps on the hose connections.
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How to Replace a Washer Drain Hose
To replace a washer drain hose, unplug the washer, shut off the water if you need to move it, remove the old drain hose from the pump and rear outlet, install the new hose in the same routing, secure the clamps, and test a drain cycle for leaks.
This is a good repair when the drain hose is cracked, split, kinked beyond recovery, or clogged badly enough that cleaning will not restore normal draining. Take your time moving the washer and keep a towel or shallow pan ready because some water usually spills out.
Before you start: Match the replacement part to your exact washer before ordering.
Safety first
- Unplug the washer before removing panels or disconnecting the hose.
- Expect leftover water in the old hose and keep towels and a drain pan ready.
- Use gloves around sheet metal edges inside the cabinet.
- Do not force the hose off a plastic outlet fitting hard enough to crack the pump or rear connection.
Tools you may need
Screwdriver set
Use it for: To remove rear panels or hose clamps if your washer uses screw-type fasteners.
Shop screwdriver set
Shallow drain pan or bucket
Use it for: To catch leftover water when the old hose comes off.
Find a drain pan
Old towels or rags
Use it for: To protect the floor and soak up spills.
Shop absorbent shop towels
Work gloves
Use it for: To protect your hands from sharp cabinet edges and dirty water.
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Flashlight
Use it for: To see the pump connection and hose routing behind the washer.
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Step-by-step fix
Step 1: Confirm the drain hose is the problem
- Look for water on the floor behind or beside the washer, especially during drain or spin.
- Inspect the visible drain hose for cracks, splits, rubbing damage, soft spots, or a sharp kink that will not relax.
- Check whether the hose is clogged with lint or debris near the standpipe end. If it is only lightly clogged, try cleaning it first.
- Make sure the leak is not coming from the fill hoses, drain pump, tub seal area, or the house standpipe overflowing.
If it works: You have good reason to replace the washer drain hose because it is damaged, badly clogged, or leaking from the hose itself.
If it doesn’t: If the hose looks sound and the leak or no-drain problem points to the pump, standpipe, or another part, stop here and diagnose that issue instead.
Stop if:
- You find damaged wiring, a burning smell, or signs the leak is coming from inside the cabinet near electrical parts.
- The washer cabinet, pump housing, or standpipe connection is cracked or broken instead of the hose.
Step 2: Unplug the washer and make room to work
- Unplug the washer from the outlet.
- If you need to pull the washer away from the wall, turn off the water supply valves first so the fill hoses are less likely to get strained.
- Place towels on the floor and set a shallow pan or bucket behind the washer.
- Pull the washer forward enough to reach the back comfortably without yanking on any hoses or the power cord.
If it works: The washer is safely disconnected and you can reach the drain hose area with spill protection in place.
If it doesn’t: If the washer is too heavy to move safely, get help before continuing.
Stop if:
- The power cord or water hoses are stretched tight or damaged when you move the washer.
- The floor feels weak, slick, or unsafe to work on.
Step 3: Remove the old drain hose
- Locate where the drain hose connects to the washer, usually at the drain pump or rear outlet inside or behind the cabinet.
- Remove any rear access panel if needed.
- Use pliers or a screwdriver to loosen the hose clamp at the washer connection.
- Hold the pan under the connection, then twist and pull the hose free slowly to drain leftover water.
- Follow the hose routing to the back of the washer and release any retaining clips or guides so you can remove the hose completely.
If it works: The old drain hose is off the washer and out of its routing path.
If it doesn’t: If the hose is stuck, rotate it gently to break it loose rather than prying hard on the pump outlet.
Stop if:
- The pump outlet or mounting point moves, cracks, or feels brittle while removing the hose.
- You uncover heavy rust, broken plastic, or hidden damage that would keep the new hose from sealing properly.
Step 4: Match and install the new hose
- Compare the new hose to the old one for length, end shape, and connection size before installing it.
- Route the new hose the same way as the original so it will not rub, sag into moving parts, or kink behind the washer.
- Push the washer-end of the hose fully onto the outlet fitting.
- Reinstall the clamp in the same sealing area as the original and tighten or release it into place securely.
- Snap the hose back into any guides or retainers and place the drain end back into the standpipe or laundry sink as it was before.
If it works: The new hose is fully seated, clamped, and routed without twists or sharp bends.
If it doesn’t: If the new hose does not match the old one closely enough to fit and route correctly, pause and get the correct replacement.
Stop if:
- The replacement hose is clearly the wrong size or cannot seat fully on the outlet.
- The hose rubs on the motor, belt, pulley, or any moving part after routing.
Step 5: Reassemble and set the washer back in place
- Reinstall any access panel you removed.
- Carefully slide the washer back toward the wall while watching that the new drain hose does not kink or get crushed.
- If you shut off the water valves earlier, turn them back on.
- Plug the washer back in.
If it works: The washer is reassembled, powered, and positioned without pinching the new hose.
If it doesn’t: If the hose keeps kinking as you move the washer back, pull the washer forward and reroute the hose with a smoother bend.
Stop if:
- The drain hose is trapped hard against the wall or the washer cannot sit in place without crushing it.
Step 6: Run a drain test and confirm the repair holds
- Run a short wash or drain-and-spin cycle with the washer empty first.
- Watch the hose connection at the washer and the drain end during draining.
- Listen for normal pump sound and confirm water flows out steadily without backing up or leaking.
- After the test cycle, check the floor again and then run one normal load to make sure the repair holds in real use.
If it works: The washer drains normally and the new hose stays dry at both ends during an empty test and a real load.
If it doesn’t: If it still leaks, recheck clamp position, hose routing, and whether the standpipe is overflowing. If it still will not drain, the problem may be the pump or a blockage elsewhere.
Stop if:
- Water leaks from the pump body, internal tub area, or another part that is not the hose.
- The standpipe overflows or sewage backs up, which points to a household drain problem rather than the washer hose.
Replacement Parts
Find a washer drain hose on Amazon
Match the replacement part to your exact washer before ordering.
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. Repair Riot may earn a commission at no extra cost to you.
Verify the repair
- The new hose matches the old hose closely and is fully seated at the washer connection.
- The hose is routed without sharp kinks, rubbing points, or crushing behind the washer.
- The clamp is secure and positioned over the sealing area of the fitting.
- The washer completes a drain or spin cycle without leaking.
- A normal load also drains correctly, confirming the repair held under real use.
FAQ
Can I reuse the old hose clamp?
Usually yes, if the clamp is not rusted, bent, or weak. If it no longer grips tightly, replace it so the new hose can seal properly.
How do I know if the hose is clogged instead of damaged?
A clog usually causes slow draining or no draining without an obvious split in the hose. A damaged hose often shows cracks, rubbing wear, or visible leaking during drain. If the hose is badly clogged and brittle, replacement is usually the better fix.
Do I need to turn off the water supply to replace the drain hose?
Not always, because you are working on the drain side. But if you need to move the washer, shutting off the supply valves helps prevent strain or accidental leaks from the fill hoses.
Why does my washer still not drain after I replaced the hose?
The problem may be a blocked pump, a failed drain pump, a clog in the house drain, or an installation issue like a kinked hose. Recheck the hose routing first, then look at the pump and standpipe.
Can a kinked drain hose be straightened instead of replaced?
Sometimes a mild kink can be corrected by rerouting the hose. If the hose has a permanent crease, soft spot, or repeated clogging from the kink, replacement is the more reliable repair.