Unplug the freezer, open the lower rear panel, photograph the relay wiring, and pull the start relay straight off the compressor terminals. Install only a relay that matches the model number, pin pattern, overload setup, and wire connectors. Stop for burned terminals, melted insulation, damaged refrigerant tubing, or a breaker that trips again.
Pick the relay path when the freezer has power and the lower rear area gives a click, short hum, pause, and repeat. Test the outlet, breaker, GFCI, and controls before you buy the part; a dark control panel, dead outlet, tripped GFCI, bad wiring, or damaged compressor terminal points to a different repair path.
Before you start: Before ordering, match the freezer model number, relay markings, compressor pin pattern, overload style, connector blades, and cover clip. Stop if terminals are burned, pins are loose, insulation is melted, tubing is damaged, or the breaker keeps tripping.
Use this repair after simple power checks pass. Start at the outlet, breaker, and GFCI; lights or controls should be on while the lower rear panel gives a click, hum, drop-out pattern. Match the relay to the model number and old terminal layout before opening the cover. Stop for burned wiring, loose pins, oil, or damaged tubing.
This page fits when: Lights or controls are on. At the lower rear panel, the compressor clicks, hums for a few seconds, stops, and retries after a pause. After you unplug the freezer and remove the relay, scorched plastic, a cracked housing, a loose connector, or a rattle inside the relay supports this repair path.
Check something else when: If the cabinet is dead, measure outlet voltage or check the breaker and GFCI first. A dark control panel is not a relay-first symptom.
This page fits when: The new relay matches the full model number, compressor pin pattern, terminal count, overload shape, connector blade size, cover slot, and retaining clip. It should dry-fit without force.
Check something else when: If the shape is close but not exact, stop. Do not push a look-alike relay onto compressor pins.
This page fits when: DIY replacement fits only when the pins are fixed, wires are clean, and copper lines are sound. A small cover gap can be normal; a loose terminal is not.
Check something else when: Call an appliance tech for burned compressor pins, oil on the shell, or damaged tubing. Call a licensed electrician if the circuit trips with the freezer unplugged.
The rear-panel view should answer two questions before power comes back on. Are the terminals, wires, and tubing safe to reuse, and does the relay line up with the compressor pins without force?
Use it for: Protects your hands around sharp rear-panel flanges, compressor brackets, and dusty metal edges.
Shop work gloves
Use it for: Removes the lower rear access panel fasteners without chewing up hex-head screws.
Shop nut driver set
Use it for: Handles Phillips screws on some rear panels, relay covers, and retaining clips.
Shop Phillips screwdriver
Use it for: Grips insulated wire connectors so you can pull the connector body instead of the wire.
Shop needle-nose pliers
Use it for: Records wire colors, terminal positions, and relay cover orientation before anything comes apart.
Shop smartphone tripod or stand
Use it for: Checks outlet voltage and relay continuity only when you know the meter setting and the service-sheet test.
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If it works: The freezer has power, the compressor tries to start but drops out, and the relay match can be checked against the old setup.
If it doesn’t: If the cabinet is fully dead, measure outlet voltage or check the breaker and GFCI before you touch the compressor area.
If it works: The freezer is unplugged and you can clearly reach the compressor and relay area.
If it doesn’t: If the floor, cabinet opening, or cord length will not give you a safe work gap, get help moving the freezer before continuing.
If it works: The old relay is off the compressor and the wire layout is documented.
If it doesn’t: If the relay will not move, recheck for a hidden clip or cover tab before you pry against the compressor.
If it works: The new relay is fully seated, the wires are back in place, and nothing is loose around the compressor terminals.
If it doesn’t: If the relay does not line up cleanly, stop and recheck the model number, compressor pin pattern, and connector blade size.
If it works: The freezer powers back up and the compressor starts without repeated clicking.
If it doesn’t: A compressor that still only clicks or hums briefly needs another power-off check of relay fit, wire connections, and part match.
If it works: The compressor starts and runs normally, the clicking is gone, and the freezer returns to proper cooling.
If it doesn’t: A running compressor with a warm cabinet points toward airflow, control, sealed-system, or compressor testing instead of another relay.
Match the relay by full freezer model number, compressor pin pattern, overload style, wire connectors, and retaining cover before ordering.
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The start relay helps the compressor get moving at startup. If it fails, the freezer may still have lights and controls, but the compressor may click, hum for a few seconds, and drop out.
Suspect the relay when the freezer has power but the lower rear area clicks, hums for a few seconds, and drops out. First check the outlet, breaker, GFCI, and controls; after removal, a burn mark, cracked housing, loose connector, or rattle supports the relay diagnosis.
Many homeowners can do this repair if they unplug the freezer, take a wire photo, and install the exact matching relay. Stop if you find burned wiring, loose compressor pins, oil on the compressor shell, or damaged refrigerant tubing.
No. The relay only helps when the compressor start circuit is the failure point. When the compressor runs but the cabinet stays warm, look at airflow, controls, defrost trouble, or sealed-system problems before buying another relay.
Sometimes the relay and overload come as one assembly, and sometimes they are separate pieces. Match the original layout and do not reuse an overload with burned terminals, loose blades, or a cracked housing.
These companion pages keep this repair tied to the symptom path: clicking at the compressor, model-matched relay fit, safe terminal access, and the point where wiring or compressor damage stops the DIY job.